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Luster
The strength, sharpness, and depth of reflected light. Luster has the greatest immediate impact on a pearl’s presence.
PEARL EDUCATION
Grading & Quality Standards
A transparent VARI framework for AA+, AAA, and AAAA pearls.
FIRST, AN IMPORTANT DISTINCTION
Pearl grades are not universal
Unlike diamond grading, there is no single worldwide letter scale used consistently by every pearl seller. A grade is meaningful only when the seller explains the factors behind it.
VARI uses three offered tiers: AA+, AAA, and AAAA. We evaluate luster, surface, shape, matching, colour, nacre, and the expectations appropriate to each pearl type.
THE VARI SCALE
Three levels of refinement
| Grade | Luster | Surface & shape | Matching | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AA+ | Bright, attractive reflection | Natural characteristics may be visible; round to near-round according to type | Balanced overall appearance with some natural variation | Daily wear, organic character, considered value |
| AAA | High luster with clear reflection | Cleaner surface and more consistent shape | Close matching in size, colour, and luster | Elevated essentials, gifts, and milestone pieces |
| AAAA | Very high luster and strong depth | Very clean appearance with highly refined shape for the pearl type | Exceptional visual consistency | Collectors, heirloom intent, and the highest VARI selection |
HOW WE LOOK
The factors behind the letters
Surface
Natural spots, rings, texture, and growth features are considered in relation to pearl type and overall beauty.
Shape
Roundness may be prized in classic pieces, while baroque pearls are judged for balance, character, and intentional form.
Matching
Strands and pairs are assessed for consistency in diameter, colour, overtone, shape, and luster.
Nacre
Nacre quality and thickness influence depth of luster and long-term durability, especially in bead-nucleated pearls.
Colour
Body colour and overtone should feel lively and harmonious, whether white, rose, golden, silver, or dark.
INDEPENDENT DOCUMENTATION
Certificates are available
Depending on the pearl and requested report, VARI can arrange documentation through GRC, GIA, or a recognized Japanese pearl laboratory.
One applicable certificate is included with orders over US$300. For orders of US$300 or less, it is optional for US$50 and is not provided unless requested.